How to Winterize an RV for Storage: The Complete Guide

Winterizing your RV before storage is essential to prevent freeze damage, mold, pest infestations, and mechanical problems that can cost thousands to repair. Whether you own a Class A motorhome, a travel trailer, or a fifth wheel, proper winterization protects your investment and ensures you're ready to roll when spring arrives.

This comprehensive guide walks through every step of the process — from draining the plumbing to protecting the exterior — based on advice from RV mechanics, storage facility managers, and experienced owners.

When Should You Winterize Your RV?

Winterize your RV before the first freeze in your area. For most of the US, this means September through November depending on your state. Don't wait for a hard freeze — a single night below 32°F can burst water lines and crack water heaters.

Even if you store your RV in a climate-controlled facility, it's still best practice to winterize the plumbing system. Pipes can freeze during transport to and from the facility.

Step 1: Drain the Entire Water System

This is the most critical step. Water expands 9% when it freezes — enough to split plastic fittings and crack tanks.

1. Drain the freshwater tank completely
2. Drain the water heater (open the pressure relief valve and the drain plug — never drain a pressurized or hot water heater)
3. Open all faucets (hot and cold) and let them drain
4. Flush the toilet until the bowl is empty
5. Drain the gray and black holding tanks at a dump station
6. Open all low-point drain valves (usually two — one for hot, one for cold lines)

Step 2: Blow Out or Antifreeze the Lines

After draining, there's still water trapped in the plumbing lines. You have two options:

Option A: Air blow-out method

Connect an air compressor (set to 30 PSI max) to the water inlet using a blow-out adapter. Open each faucet one at a time until no more water comes out. This method uses no chemicals and leaves no taste.

Option B: RV antifreeze method

Use a water pump converter kit or bypass the water heater and pump non-toxic RV antifreeze (pink, propylene glycol) through every faucet, toilet, shower, and drain until you see the pink color. This is the safer method for extremely cold climates.

Important: Never use automotive antifreeze — it's toxic and will contaminate your water system.

Step 3: Protect the Engine and Generator (Motorhomes)

If you have a motorhome with an engine and/or generator:

• Change the engine oil and filter (old oil contains acids that corrode bearings)
• Fill the fuel tank and add fuel stabilizer — run the engine for 15 minutes to circulate
• Check and top off coolant (ensure it's rated for your local winter temperatures)
• Run the generator under load for 2 hours with stabilized fuel, then shut off the fuel supply and let it run dry
• Change the generator oil if it's due

Step 4: Battery Maintenance

RV batteries discharge naturally at about 10% per month. A fully discharged battery will freeze at 20°F, while a fully charged one won't freeze until -75°F. Proper care is critical:

1. Fully charge all batteries (house and chassis)
2. Disconnect the negative terminals or turn off the battery disconnect switch
3. Clean the terminals with baking soda and water
4. If storing where temperatures drop below freezing, remove batteries and store indoors
5. Connect a smart maintainer/trickle charger to keep optimal charge levels

Step 5: Prepare the Interior

A sealed, unventilated RV is a magnet for mold, mildew, and musty odors. Take these steps:

• Remove all food — canned goods can freeze and burst, and any crumbs attract pests
• Deep clean everything — counters, fridge, stove, bathroom, floors
• Defrost and clean the refrigerator — leave the door propped open with a towel
• Open all cabinets and drawers slightly for air circulation
• Place moisture absorbers (DampRid, Dri-Z-Air) throughout the RV — at least 2 in the main area, 1 in the bathroom, 1 in each closet
• Remove bedding and soft goods if storing outdoors or in an uncontrolled environment

Step 6: Protect the Exterior

The exterior faces the worst of winter — UV, rain, snow, and ice.

• Wash and wax the entire exterior with RV-specific products
• Inspect and reseal all roof seams, window frames, and door seals with Dicor or equivalent sealant
• Cover the tires with UV-resistant tire covers (sun damage causes dry rot)
• Check tire pressure and inflate to manufacturer specs (tires lose pressure in cold weather)
• Use a breathable RV cover if storing outdoors — avoid tarps which trap moisture
• Retract all slides and awnings

Step 7: Pest Prevention

Mice and insects are the #1 reason for expensive RV repairs after winter storage. They chew wires, nest in insulation, and contaminate surfaces.

• Seal every opening — furnace vents, plumbing holes, AC unit gaps, slide seals
• Stuff steel wool into accessible gaps (rodents can't chew through it)
• Place mothballs or Fresh Cab rodent repellent pouches throughout the RV
• Set snap traps as a backup (avoid poison — dead rodents in walls cause terrible odors)
• Inspect at least once per month during storage

Step 8: Protect the Propane System

Turn off all propane appliances and the main propane valve. Some storage facilities require propane tanks to be turned off or removed — check their rules before storing.

Step 9: Choose the Right Storage

Your storage choice directly impacts how much winterization you need and how well your RV survives. Here's a comparison:

Storage Type	Protection Level	Typical Cost	Best For
Climate Controlled	Premium	$200–$600/mo	Luxury RVs, harsh climates
Indoor/Enclosed	Excellent	$150–$500/mo	Year-round protection from weather and UV
Covered	Good	$75–$250/mo	Sun and rain protection at moderate cost
Outdoor	Basic	$50–$150/mo	Budget option, mild climates

Browse RV storage facilities near you to compare pricing, features, and availability.

RV Winterization Checklist

1. Drain freshwater tank, water heater, and all lines
2. Blow out lines or pump RV antifreeze through entire system
3. Drain gray and black holding tanks
4. Change engine oil and add fuel stabilizer (motorhomes)
5. Run generator dry with stabilized fuel
6. Fully charge and disconnect all batteries
7. Clean interior thoroughly; place moisture absorbers
8. Empty and prop open refrigerator
9. Wash, wax, and inspect exterior seals
10. Cover tires and check pressure
11. Seal all openings against pests
12. Turn off propane
13. Choose appropriate storage facility

A thorough winterization takes about 3-4 hours for a travel trailer and 5-6 hours for a motorhome. It's a small investment of time that prevents thousands in potential repairs — and makes de-winterizing in spring fast and stress-free.